C unard Line’s much-touted Queen Mary 2 is not a cruise ship; she’s an ocean liner, which is of utmost importance to crew and passengers like Dick and Barbara Lawrence of Highlands, NC. That’s because the regular route for the QM2, as she’s called, is the open sea - crossing the Atlantic from New York City to Southampton, UK, and vice versa. “My husband is very firm about this sailing - it’s not a cruise when you cross the Atlantic,” explained Barbara Lawrence. “There’s a big difference between a cruise ship and an ocean liner. They are built for the ocean, to take any kind of weather.”
Last May, the Lawrences had the urge to make their eastbound transatlantic trip aboard the Queen Elizabeth 2 even more special by capping it off with a second crossing - a spontaneous return, westbound on the Queen Mary 2.
Passengers on our sailing were impressed with what awaited onboard - grand art deco spaces including high ceilings and wide halls seldom seen on ships; impeccable service; impressive art (5,000 pieces by 128 artists from 16 countries); great cuisine; a top-notch spa; the largest ballroom, wine cellar and library at sea and the world’s only shipboard planetarium. Upper-category suites feature butler service and a designated lounge.
QM2 guests dine in the sweeping, two-level Britannia Restaurant or the Princess and Queens grills, based on cabin category, and for a surcharge, the Todd English Restaurant. The latter was such a favorite of Sue and Roger Kritz from Santa Barbara, CA, that they returned nightly. A special chef’s table tasting menu is also offered by reservation, and there’s the Kings Court, with buffet by day and themed restaurants by night.
Also in the pampering category is one of the largest spas at sea, the 20,000-square-foot Canyon Ranch Spa Club and its popular aqua therapy pool. Among signature treatments is the Euphoria, 100 minutes of scalp and body massage and a hydro tub soak. A British woman declared the Thai massage life-changing. Barbara Lawrence had three.
RICH SEA TRADITION
Cunard’s rich sea tradition spans 168 years and 200 vessels. The Cunard Line operates Queen Mary 2, Queen Elizabeth 2 and the new 90,000-ton Queen Victoria. Cunard line, says the company website, “has long been synonymous with the quest for new discoveries and the epitome of British refinement since the company’s first paddle-wheeled steamer, Britannia, crossed the Atlantic in 1840.”
For her 2,620 guests, she aims to make a “crossing” the glamorous, stylish travel experience it once was.
The Queens Room, the largest ballroom at sea, hosts a Royal Night Ascot Ball each sailing, plus the captain’s cocktail reception and nightly dancing. There’s also white-glove afternoon tea accompanied by a string quartet.
Members of the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art perform and give workshops. The University of Oxford offers a lecture program. You can even shop at Harrod’s in the Mayfair Shops or have a pint at an English pub.
Night-time hotspots are a casino, nightclub and disco plus the popular Commodore Club with panoramic ocean views, and a champagne bar featuring Waterford crystal and Wedgwood china.
Illuminations offers three different planetarium shows each crossing by lowering a large dome to suspend over the upper 150 seats within a two-story, 600-seat theater used for other events.
Like the Lawrences, the Kritzes, who’ve taken about a dozen cruises, said they much prefer a transatlantic crossing to flying.
“Everything was well thought out,” Roger Kritz said of the crossing.
The Kritzes then piggybacked this return crossing with a 10-day food-and-wine cruise aboard Crystal Cruises. They spent the two nights in between at the UK’s fashionable Chewton Glen estate property.
Roger Kritz said cruising vs. flying beats jet lag, too: “... you are so jet lagged when you get home that you are wasted for 10 days at least.” Plus, “you meet so many people” on cruises.
Among others we met were New York antiques dealers who use the QM2 for their twice yearly UK buying trips.
“It’s so much more civilized,” said one. “The ship is a destination - you’d never say that about a plane.”
“And, it’s less expensive than flying business class,” added his business partner.
Sue Kritz said young professionals should “consider this method of traveling in style. The disco, the music, the gym would all appeal to young people. Anyone can appreciate all the great things they offer on a ship like this. The diversity of offerings on here is great; everything for everybody.”
Said Roger: “This is more interesting, more fun and a higher cost-benefit ratio than any other ship I’ve been on. I would say everyone should do this if they want to do a crossing.” “It spoils you though, doesn’t it?” Ms Lawrence adds.
DETAILS
Info: Visit www.cunard.com, call 1.800.7.CUNARD or contact your travel agent.
Pre/Post Cruise: Two, five-star accommodations not far from Southampton are:
-- Lucknam Park (www.lucknampark.com) near historic Bath and reminiscent of a countryside castle with its 500 acres that include gardens and an equestrian center; plus
-- Chewton Glen (www.chewtonglen.com) located in New Milton, Hampshire, a small hotel and country club (58 bedrooms and suites) with award-winning spa set in the New Forest National Park just minutes from the sea. Chewton Glen, voted Best Hotel in the British Isles by readers of Conde Nast Traveller, can arrange a Stonehenge tour.
QM2 cruiser Sue Kritz said of her pre-cruise stay: “That’s the best spa we’ve ever been in, and I’ve been to several.”
-- To add-on a London stay, consider the five-star, beautifully appointed and perfectly situated Hotel Stafford (www.thestaffordhotel.co.uk) with its fun American bar.
-- In New York, try The Kimberly all-suites hotel in Manhattan’s east side (www.kimberlyhotel.com) with dinner at “21” (www.21club.com) and a New York City harbor tour. For a full list of what’s on in the Big Apple, visit www.nycvisit.com

When the Queen Mary 2 debuted in 2004, she was the longest, tallest, widest and most expensive passenger vessel ever built.
(The QM 2 Book of Comparisons illustrates that at 1,132 feet, she is longer than the Eiffel Tower; and at 237 feet, she’s a foot higher than London’s Tower Bridge and half as high at the London Eye observation wheel. Her 50,000-ton hull outweighs 330 blue whales.)